An Interview with G. Bruce Boyer (Styleforum)
“I’m repulsed by anarchy, and believe it’s always good to first learn what the rules are, whether it’s for manners, writing, dressing, or any other aspect of civilized life. I think even the geniuses among us, those who construct their own worlds, first learn from the past before breaking away into the future. Lord Chesterfield said, “Dress is a foolish thing; and yet it is a very foolish thing for a man not to be well dressed.” Style is what happens when a person bends fashion to his personality.”

The Climb of Ivy (Lapham’s Quarterly)
“VAN was so successful in using these definitive proclamations to get both readers and retailers on the same page that Japanese fashion today still retains this emphasis on rules. U.S. Ivy League style was steeped in tradition, class privilege, and subtle social distinctions. The best part of collegiate fashion was its unconscious cool. No one read manuals; they just imitated their fathers, brothers, and classmates. In Japan VAN needed to break down Ivy into a distinct protocol so that a new convert could take up the style without having ever seen an actual American. Men’s Cluboften gave the same styles the fun of filing taxes.”

It’s Raining Menswear (The New Yorker)
“From this perspective, menswear culture is part of a larger, class-centric project, in which men seek ways to be gorgeous, poetic, and aristocratic on the sly, without betraying the egalitarian ideals that, at least in theory, define modern manhood.”

How to Make a Knife (Bloomberg)
“Unlike knifemakers who start by grinding down stock pieces of metal, these highly sought-after blacksmiths go to junkyards and auto yards to find recyclable metals they can manipulate, whether old springs from a 1954 Chevrolet or discarded brass from a shipwreck. They transform selected scrap metals into one-of-a-kind knives so stunning that customers are willing to order the blades more than two years in advance.”