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There are many shoe manufacturers in Indonesia that do goodyear welted footwear but Sagara Indonesia stood out because of their classic designs and high quality craftsmanship. Back in May I purchased a pair of longwing brogues (LWB) in the form of the Capital I – Sand Pull-Up. The shoes retail for USD 220 excluding shipping. I had to wait two months for them to arrive due to a logistics issue but now they’re here and I’m eager to share it.

Specifications

What I liked about Sagara Indonesia is that the details of the shoes are posted on their website which made deciding to buy relatively easy. This gave me the impression that the people behind the brand knew exactly what they were talking about and that their customers were looking for the same thing. I have not read any reviews prior to buying so this was very helpful. Below are the specifications of the Capital I – Sand Pull-up from their website.

  • Color: Sand
  • Last: Mark
  • Sizing: True Size
  • Upper: 4.5 – 5 Oz Pull-Up Leather
  • Lining: Full 3 Oz Lambskin lining
  • Sockliner: 3 Oz Lambskin lining
  • Hardware: Hidden Eyelets
  • Construction: Goodyear Welted Construction (Storm Welt)
  • Edge Trim: Natural
  • Outsole: Micro Rubber Sole
  • Features:
    • Hand punching brogueing (decorative perforation)
    • Arch Support Footbed
    • Gentleman’s notch
    • Certificate of Authenticity
    • Warranty Card (valid for one year)
    • Extra laces
    • Dust bag

Construction and Design

The craftsmanship they put into their shoes is superb. This can be seen on the brogueing and the handsewn goodyear welt. I like the design of the medallion as it is distinctly Sagara Indonesia. There are hidden metal eyelets so laces don’t wear out quickly and there is a gentleman’s notch to prevent your pants from snagging. I wear my pants without a break so it’s largely useless to me but it’s good to know they didn’t forget the little details.

Fit

The Mark is described by Sagara Indonesia as their newest, most comfortable last and that it fits like a glove. I have to agree as there is ample space in the toe box; it comes in a regular width so it doesn’t feel tight around the waist of the foot; and it grips my heel just right without being too tight. I ordered a size EU 44 as this is usually my size when it comes to shoes and it fits perfectly.

Leather

The color of the shoes varied slightly from what was shown on the website (probably due to the lighting conditions when it was photographed). Nevertheless I like the color as it is very casual and soft requiring no breaking-in. Pull-up leather is waxy or oily and its look changes over time as it is exposed to the elements and some abrasion.

Wear

From the moment I received the shoes I wore them sockless. It’s absolutely a pleasure to use without socks as they are fully lined with no rough spots whatsoever. It has an arch support footbed which prevents some feet from bending over when walking. I’ve used them on entire days and they remained comfortable all throughout.

Top of the box

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Box label

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Unboxing

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Certificate of Authenticity

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Extra laces, warranty card and shoes in dust bags

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In all its glory

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Brogueing

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Medallion

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Rear view

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Micro Rubber Sole

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Stacked leather and rubber heel with a gentleman’s notch

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Hidden eyelets

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Storm welt

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“Handcrafted in Indonesia”

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Bonus: Photos of Sagara Indonesia shoes in the making. Provided by Bagus Satria.

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