I was browsing how to clean Bristol Montgomery shoes when I saw the link to your blog. I would like to commend your blog, it’s really informative. I, myself, am trying to improve the way I dress since I am now working. I am required to wear formal wear (sometimes with coat) in the office 5 days a week and I want to look good. My main problem is, I’m short. I’m only 5’3″ and finding shirts that fit me is a really hard and sometimes embarrassing as they tend to be too long (small size) or too wide on the shoulders. One of your entries talks about you having 3 shirts custom made, I would like to try this too. Where did you buy the fabrics and where did you have them made? I live near Makati, do you know any good tailors near me? Your help would be highly appreciated. I am also thinking about having my first coat made, I also saw entries of you having your coat done. Could you also help me with this one?

I know I may be asking too much but I really need help. I want to look good.

Hoping for a reply,

Hi Ken,

Glad you like what you’re seeing here. You made a good choice by purchasing a pair of Bristol Shoes’ Montgomery. Good shoes are the foundation of any wardrobe.

We have the same problem of finding the best fitting shirts and that is exactly the same reason why I no longer buy shirts off the rack (unless I find them really nice and can’t find them anywhere else). Fanbi Fabrics has by far the best selection of shirting fabrics in the metro. For your size and body type, I would recommend striped dress shirts with pinpoint collars to give that additional height. As you are already going with striped shirts, pair it with solid ties not wider than 3¼ inch.

For your suit, I would recommend a two-button charcoal gray suit with classic-width notch or peak lapels. A two-button suit is more modern and the longer ‘V’ will make you have a longer looking torso. Notch lapels should be on the upper part of your chest along or near the collar bone (beware of tailors who advise otherwise). Peak lapels will give the appearance of height and at the same time add a touch of flair. The suit should cover your buttocks but should also be as short as possible to balance the look. Opt for side vents.

In a follow up email you said your shirts tend to bulge around the waist. This is due to the fact that there is a lot of excess fabric that sometimes cannot be tucked in. Shirts you still would like to wear should be properly altered. In relation to this, I would also recommend that your suit trousers start right below your belly button with legs cut straight. This will give you longer legs and enough space for your shirts to be properly tucked in. Your trousers should also break on top of the shoe and should not bunch up. Lastly, add some cuffs (1⅝ inch) to compliment your choice of shoes.

I have had shirts done by Galang and Cornell but no experience with them having a suit commissioned. They both do generally good work with Galang relatively cheaper than Cornell. I suggest you visit both shops and take a look at the suits & shirts they have created if they are to your liking.

Best of luck on your new suit and shirts.