Last August 2016 I got measured for my first bespoke suit by Neapolitan tailor Sartoria Dalcuore. Founder and master tailor Luigi Dalcuore started making suits at a young age steadily growing his business over the last 50 years. Today, they are one of the more well-known sartorias (tailoring houses) in Naples, Italy. Maestro Luigi is usually accompanied by daughter Cristina or her husband Damiano during trunk shows around the world. Signet, the men’s clothing store I manage in Manila, hosts Sartoria Dalcuore four times a year to take orders and conduct fittings.
Sartoria Dalcuore is what I would call true bespoke. Many tailors in Manila will tell you they do bespoke but in reality do not. True bespoke requires multiple fittings each stage closer to being finished to achieve the perfect fit. The perfect fit means that the garment should be sculpted close to the body without being tight. It should enhance physique while at the same time hiding defects. Lastly, it should provide a wide range of movement in the arms. Each garment is fully canvassed and made by hand taking anywhere between six months to a year to finish.