What’s the difference between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear? (Permanent Style)
“The revival of menswear in recent years, driven by a combination of  enthusiasts,  innovative menswear companies and internet communication, has meant that whether a man is looking to buy a single suit or an entire wardrobe, he has never had so many options. Unfortunately, that choice is often obscured by brands and their marketing – particularly when it comes to differentiating between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear suiting. This difference is neither incidental nor arbitrary. It is crucial to the consideration that goes into buying a new suit, and can be tightly defined.”

The Life and Times of the Tactical Backpack (Huckberry)
“The influence of all this on everyday carry can’t be understated. Features like loadbearing back panels are staples in today’s tactical kits; MOLLE webbing is used on GORUCK, Heimplanet, and more or less any commercial pack brand trying to push the ‘tacti-cool’ edge; hydration bladders built into GORUCKS today give everybody the opportunity to ruck and suck down a little H2o while a bunch of cadres yell in their faces; to say nothing of cutting edge adjustable sizing frames like Mystery Ranch’s Futura Yoke. Functional boons aside, all these features are just as much there to make a good looking bag come off even more badass than it already is.”

Made In USA – Part I – Bill’s And The Downside Of Success (Nick Hilton)
“Building the kind of inventory levels necessary to support large, seasonal catalogs, the expansion of the product lines, sampling, graphics design and production, the basic infrastructure costs and overall expense of servicing a “multi-channel” business — all this requires major league dough, albeit the kind of financing that hedge funds and private equity funds usually consider small change. Nevertheless, such a “small” investment in a vanity venture (Made in America! Bill’s Khakis!) must have seemed like a great idea to some guys who wore them on the golf course, saw them advertised in the Wall Street Journal. And so, in this morality-tale, imaginary version of the story, a bunch of back-slapping private equity got put up and it was all champagne and catalogs until the fund took some unrelated lumps and some guy in the back room, the actual figures guy, the one that cares about only profits and performance, unconcerned about the silly notion of Brand Value, after a few months of witnessing typical apparel company performance, said, “We gotta pull the plug on this loser.” Sayonara.”

What is Tonka Bean? (GQ UK)
Tonka bean is the seed of the catchily named Dipteryx odorata tree, or Coumarouna odorata, which is why it is also known as coumarin – the chemical isolate that is used in perfumery. It’s native to South and Central America and a common ingredient in many fragrances. Its usage dates back to the late 19th Century, and the main producers today are Nigeria and Venezuela. This edible, shrivelled black bean has a sweet aroma that is often likened to almond or vanilla, with undertones of tobacco, that can lend a creamy, warm element to a fragrance composition. The initial sweetness of the tonka bean is often balanced out by fresh or green elements in the composition such as bergamot, lavender, vetiver or mint.”

Shell Shock: The Growing Demand For The Horse Leather Known As Cordovan (Ivy Style)
“Middleborough, Mass.-based Alden, known for its quality and conservative styles, is another decades-long customer of Horween. “They treat us very fairly,” says president Robert Clark. “We don’t have a supply problem, we have a demand problem. Supply is not at historic highs, but nor is it really low. However, the demand for cordovan has skyrocketed.””