Sapatero Manila-017-3

Sapatero Manila-018-3

Sapatero Manila-020-3

After the shoes are lasted the insole and welt are attached using glue. It is after this stage when the customer comes in for a fitting. If the fit is not satisfactory adjustments can still be made. Otherwise, the shoemaker proceeds with stitching together the welt, upper and insole. I wanted a narrow waist on this pair so the welt does not extend to the entire length of the shoe.

Sapatero Manila-039-2

Sapatero Manila-044-2

Sapatero Manila-049-5

A metal shank is then attached to the insole. It acts as a support structure between the insole and the outsole. Once the glue has dried a bit a layer of cork is applied and sanded down. Over time this layer of cork molds to the wearer’s feet.

Sapatero Manila-053-2

Sapatero Manila-059-2

Then a piece of oak-bark tanned leather is cut and glued to form the outsole of the shoe.

Sapatero Manila-066

Sapatero Manila-069

Sapatero Manila-074

Next the outsole is cut open along the edge to form a channel. This channel is where the stitching that links together the welt and outsole will pass through. The channel is then closed to keep a clean appearance on the bottom of the shoe.

Next: Part 4: Finished Pair

Sapatero Manila-080

Sapatero Manila-079

Sapatero Manila-093

Sapatero Manila-104