The latest obsession in the menswear scene lately has been the popover. Once worn by the Italian business magnate and style icon Gianni Agnelli, this item of clothing has suddenly become a symbol of casual flair. As a follower of the Italian menswear aesthetic I knew I had to have one. There aren’t many who makes popovers and with my somewhat weird fit off the rack the only way was to go tailored. I’ve been impressed with the work of Abdul on the various shirts my friends had made so I decided that he will be the one to make my popover.
For the uninitiated the popover looks nothing more than a long-sleeved polo shirt. But there’s more to it than meets the eye. My basis for my popover will be the one by Owen and James. It will be made with a pale blue Oxford cloth, will have a soft cutaway collar, high armholes, a four-button placket, and pleats on the shoulders.
The first step was to get measured up. I wore a shirt that fit me well and Abdul started taking measurements which will be made into a pattern. The shirt I wore was thin and fit close to my body so the measurements taken had to account for the heavier Oxford cloth especially around the arms. Photos were taken so he could look back at how the shirt fit me.
Next Abdul let me try one of his fit shirts. This is to give him a better idea of how the end result will look like. This fit shirt had pleats on the shoulders so it was more comfortable than the shirt I wore earlier. I decided that we should keep this fullness on the shoulders for comfort when moving the arms. The fit shirt’s collar sat low so the final shirt’s collar will sit higher. Photos were also taken for comparison to the previous shirt.
After all the measurements were taken it was time to focus on the style specifications. Length-wise I wanted my popover to be versatile in that I can wear it tucked in or out. But we’ll finalize that during the first fitting because cutting it short right away would leave no room to make adjustments. The fit shirt had a curved cutaway collar but I wanted mine to have a fuller and not curved cutaway collar. For buttons I chose the number 17 above. Abdul asked me if I preferred a thin or thick thread and explained to me the puckering on the stitching. As this is a casual shirt I wanted it to have character, in other words, puckering. With all the specifications recorded and payment made I come back in two weeks for my first fitting.