For the discerning gentleman looking to set himself apart and project his individuality having items of clothing made bespoke is the only way to go. The launch of Linkson Jack’s bespoke tie service aims to do just that offering options on the following aspects of a tie: length, width, material, number of folds, lined or unlined, tipping and with or without a keeper. It’s not a lot to choose from but the combinations of option can be daunting for first time buyers and needs to be thoroughly explained to get the most out of a bespoke tie service.
Length and Width
Most ties available in the market are made for people who are between 5’9″ and 6 feet tall usually with wide shoulders. If you are shorter or taller and slimmer than those measurements the tie will not look in proportion to your body. It could also be that your personal style preference is a slimmer or wider than average tie.
Fabric and Folds
A high quality tie is made of silk, wool, cashmere, linen, cotton or a combination of these. You can tell that the fabric is of high quality because a tie drapes, knots, dimples and simply looks better. But it doesn’t end there. After the fabric has been cut to the desired length and width it has to be folded. Ties are usually made with three folds. Purists who prefer ties made from the fabric alone can opt for five or six folds. The additional folds is thought to add body and drape to the tie if the material is thin like the garza fina (fine weave grenadine). More material and skill is required in making such ties thus commanding a higher price. A higher number of folds doesn’t necessarily make a tie better than one with a lesser number of folds. Rather, it becomes a personal statement that one enjoys the luxury of having a tie made from a lot of expensive material and the craftsmanship that goes into it.
The interlining added to a tie is what gives it body or fullness. Fabric that is not thick enough is usually compensated by either multiple folds, an interlining or both. The interlining is also responsible for making sure that ties return to their original shape and so that wrinkles are gone by the next time you put them on. For those who prefer a large knot an interlining is recommended.
Tipping is the material used to cover the back of the triangular end of the tie. There are many options for the tipping such as being self-tipped, a navy tipping, untipped or you can let the maker decide. Tipping a tie hides the edges and makes it look clean. However, there are those who prefer it to be untipped. The edges of an untipped tie are either folded flat and blind stitched or have hand rolled edges and hand sewn.
The keeper is a small band of fabric attached to back of the tie used to keep the back blade in place. It usually made from the same material as the tie. Those who like their ties to move freely do not add a keeper to their bespoke ties. If you like to your ties to stay in place add a keeper.
When Linkson Jack asked me to write about their bespoke tie service they gave me the same list of options. I’ve always wanted a navy grenadine and chose the garza fina (fine weave) over the garza grossa (large weave). When one takes a closer a look at the garza fina it looks like a fine silk knit tie. I like my ties to have classic proportions: 3.5″ wide and 58″ long. This is my first bespoke tie and I wanted the details to speak for itself: six folds without an interlining and untipped. I chose to add a keeper because I can always choose not to use it.
It’s amazing how multiple folds of high quality silk precisely cut and sewn together can symbolize beauty and perfection. That’s the impression I got when I received my bespoke tie. The grenadine looks beautiful. The folding and the handstitching of the edges were meticulously done.
Arcuri, the Italian company that makes these bespoke ties in behalf of Linkson Jack, deserves much praise for the craftsmanship that goes into the ties they make. They inspect ties at each stage of production to avoid any imperfections and it shows. The quality control and the craftsmanship is impressive. As with anything bespoke it takes time for the ties to be made (between 4-5 weeks) but the product is guaranteed to impress and delight.
As an exclusive offer to the readers of this blog Linkson Jack is offering a £51.50 (~$80) discount for bespoke ties and ready-to-wear ties that aren’t on sale with the code BMBTIES. It’s valid until August 29, 2013. If you have any questions about Linkson Jack’s bespoke tie service you can always email them at [email protected].